Episode 34: The Red Onion Saloon
The Red Onion Saloon remains to be one of the most respected joints in town.
Episode Transcripts
Respect—it’s safe to say that our society places a heavy burden on this concept. And for good reason too. I mean, this virtue, after all, guides the moral compass through the seasons of life.
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They say that it’s earned through actions alone. Not through self-gratification or cheap conversation. Sure, respect is the reflection of the self, but it’s our actions that are staring back at us in the mirror.
How you treat others, how you treat yourself. It all boils down to this: what are you doing behind closed doors and who are you when no one’s watching?
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It’s the answer to these questions that often define us—that determine the respect that we give as well as the kindness that we receive.
I guess some would say it’s Karma. Others may call it justice. But for me, it’s as simple as this: respect by every measure of the word will always come back to haunt us.
I’m Courtney Hayes and you’re listening to haunts. Stay tuned…
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They call it the last frontier. And really it’s a fitting title. Alaska, though breathtakingly beautiful and humbly serene, is often unforgiving.
I mean, between the sub-freezing temps and vastly remote terrain, the country’s largest state is likely one of the most dangerous. Not to mention that the violent crime rate sits at a whopping 8.4 percent. That’s more than double the national average.
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Of course, it’s not all bad. After all, there are countless pockets of closely-knit communities scattered across Alaska’s expansive landscape.
Take, for instance, the rural township of Skagway. Existing in the shadows of the Coast Mountain range, this little mining settlement is home to no more than 1300 people.
Unlike many of the other cities in the southeastern region of the state, Skagway residents enjoy life at a slower pace—opting for a rural landscape over an overcrowded urban environment. In Skagway, people look out for one another and treat each other with respect.
Now this is not to say that there isn’t at least some darkness written into the history of this charming town. For a rather chilling legend has taken root along its ice-covered streets. Yet even in spite of this grim and somewhat nefarious reputation, the Red Onion Saloon remains to be one of the most respected joints in town.
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Dating back to 1898, the Red Onion Saloon has always been a popular gathering place for Skagway locals. Back when it was first erected, the saloon catered to a diverse clientele—each of whom were drawn to the settlement during the Klondike Goldrush.
Now as time passed the main level of the red onion became a space for prospectors to conduct business. Just as it was a friendly environment for countless tired and overworked miners to unwind. But the main attraction on the other hand actually sat one floor above.
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You see, the red onion saloon was more or less a front. One concealing a high-class bordello up on the second floor.
Back in those days, saloon patrons could pay a pretty penny for the company of the Red Onion’s premiere staff. In-kind, these ladies enjoyed near-immaculate working conditions and outstanding wages. Not to mention they were offered protection thanks to the bordello’s in-house bouncer.
Today the Red Onion Saloon carries on their legacy. The second story now functioning as a museum that pays homage to the Red Onion’s vibrant history.
It’s this very attraction that draws countless guests to the saloon each and every year—hoping that they can catch a glimpse into the storied lives of the working women. Although if the rumors are true their work is far from over.
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Sitting along the mantle that overlooks the bar at the Red Onion Saloon, is a display of 10 colorfully dressed dolls. To the casual observer, these modest toys would almost certainly seem like simple decorative pieces. But you and I both know that there’s a bigger picture here.
You see back in the early days of the Red Onion these rag dolls functioned as the physical representation of the girls working upstairs. Interested clients would use the dolls to pick their poison—just as easily as they would order a drink. And within a matter of moments, they would be guided upstairs by the real-life woman behind the doll.
It was a crude methodology, but for a time it served its purpose. And for what it’s worth, the women working at the Red Onion were treated with a high level of respect.
Women like Lydia. Her doll still sits up on the mantle—a token from the life she led over a century ago. Although this is not to say that Lydia herself isn’t still hanging around.
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According to Liz Lavoie, the General Manager at the Red Onion Saloon, Lydia’s energy is a near-constant presence. Especially, up in the museum where Liz has never felt entirely alone.
Apparently, saloon staff and guests often report hearing Lydia’s heeled footsteps making their way up and down the halls of the old bordello. Then, only after the footsteps dissipate into a distant echo, the distinct smell of perfume settles into the space.
Some even claim that they have encountered Lydia’s physical manifestation while touring the building. Described as a beautiful young woman with a scarred face, Lydia is a spirit who demands respect.
As a matter of fact, guests are encouraged to greet Lydia when entering the building. A practice that seems to keep the spirit’s less friendly attributes at bay.
According to local lore at least, those who enter the Red Onion saloon without acknowledging Lydia’s presence will likely suffer bad luck and misfortune for the rest of the day. So consider yourself warned. While she may seem friendly and unassuming on the surface, Lydia’s ghost isn’t one to take kindly to disrespect. And as we will soon see, two can play at that game.
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It should be obvious by now that Lydia’s ghost is known to have somewhat of a temper. Especially when she feels like she is being treated poorly. Take the following incident for example.
A few years back, a staff member arrived for an early morning shift at the Red Onion Saloon. She walked right into the building and got to work with the opening duties.
At some point during this morning routine, the staff member walked into the back office to pull cash from the safe. She went through the combination carefully only to find that the door wouldn’t open. She ran through the combination again and again nothing happened.
That’s when she remembered. She never greeted Lydia that morning—an act that the spirit had almost certainly taken offense to. So she called out, cheerfully greeting Lydia as she would on any other morning. And as soon as she did the safe swung open of its own accord.
It was a startling experience, but hey, this particular staff member never forgot to greet Lydia again.
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Now it is worth mentioning that Lydia’s fiery spirit extends beyond this seemingly innocent superstition. On one occasion, for instance, restaurant staff were working a morning shift when they were subjected to some poltergeist-like activity.
Apparently, one of the cooks was blaring music from an iPod in the kitchen— disturbing saloon patrons and fellow staff members in the process. That is until the iPod was yanked away from its cord by an unseen force.
Then, only seconds later, several jars of hot sauce flew from the spot on the counter—shattering into pieces on the floor. As you can imagine, the commotion came as a bit of a shock. So when the cook started playing his music again, well it was set to a much lower volume…
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While Lydia is almost certainly the most famous ghost in all of Skagway, she is not the only one spending their afterlife at the Red Onion Saloon. For there is another lurking through the halls of the old bordello—and this particular spirit is one who is much more disturbed.
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As I mentioned at the top of the episode, the women working at the Red Onion during the Klondike gold rush were offered the protection of an in-house bouncer. Although this so-called protection wasn’t exactly safe.
You see, this bouncer had the habit of disrespecting the women under his care. That is until one such woman decided to put an end to his constant harassment—stabbing him to death up in the bordello on the second floor.
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Today this individual is known simply by the name John. A malevolent spirit with a foul temper, he is still known for being disrespectful to saloon staff.
Now John is most commonly identified by the pungent smell of body odor. As it is a stench that follows him throughout this haunt.
Perhaps, unsurprisingly, the spirit is known for being somewhat of a peeping Tom. In fact, on more than one occasion, the women’s locker room door has flung open at times when staff members were actively changing into uniform. Only to be followed by this stench that they’ve come to know all too well.
Beyond this twisted behavior, John’s spirit is also known for violence—often pushing people down the stairs that lead from the museum into the main restaurant. It’s this sort of activity that has led some to believe that John is still playing bouncer at the Red Onion Saloon.
Although if you want my opinion, I’d say that these occurrences go far beyond the role he played in life. I mean, given his rather aggressive demeanor, it seems to me that John’s spirit is utterly enraged. Or rather haunted by the consequences of his own disrespectful actions.
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Okay, so if you’re anything like me, you’re probably wondering how and when to visit the Red Onion Saloon. So before we end today’s episode, I’d like to share some information about their hours of operation and more importantly their renowned ghost tours.
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First and foremost, it’s worth mentioning that the building itself is poorly insulated, meaning that the Red Onion Saloon does not operate during the winter months. So if you’re interested in visiting this historic haunt, you’ll need to plan your trip between the months of April and September.
During your visit, I highly suggest that you grab a slice of pizza or maybe even a cold craft beer from behind the bar. Then once you’re done with your meal you can indulge in one of the saloon's in-house ghost tours— which have been voted as the best in the state.
For just $10 you can participate in what the saloon calls their quote "quickie tour" which grants you access to the famed Bordello museum. Should you have a bit more time on your hands, you can also sign up for the Red Onion’s walking tour where you will learn about the many hauntings of Skagway’s historic red light district.
As always, I will have information on how to book these excursions in today’s show notes at hauntscast.com. So if you’re interested I encourage you to check it out. Oh and if you end up visiting, make sure to tell Lydia that I said hello.
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Credits